Daily Skincare Routine

 INTRODUCTION 

• Skin is the biggest organ in body. It's important to know it's biological structure before we start our skincare routine.

Epidermis 

• Made up of keratinocytes (skin cells) which are constantly renewing with new cells and dead keratinocytes are shedding in stratum corneum. The process takes one month and it slows down as we age. So cleaning skin and exfoliating it is very important. 

• It's bottom layer produce melanin which protects us  from UV rays and give skin its colour. We tan because skin produce more melanin to protect it against UV rays. 

• Skincare will ever only treat epidermis. If you want to go deeper use prescription or needle with doctor's advice. 

Dermis 

• It contains blood vessels & nerves (that gives us sense of touch) and hair follicle & oil glands. 

• Made up of 2 proteins 

1) Collagen - gives shape and fullness to the skin 

2) Elastin - gives skin its resilience and ability to snap back into shape. These proteins starts to deplete as we age that leads to wrinkles and dry skin.

Subcutaneous tissue 

• It's a layer of fat and tissue that protect muscles from beating skin and regulate body temperature.

• It tends to thin as we age and thus skin looks less smooth.

We all have different skins but these are general rules. Don't wait, start today and get surprised by the results and self satisfaction by self caring.

Please note - Since the routine is written in a bit of detail, you may find it burdensome to apply daily. But actually it takes 5-7 minutes only to follow each morning and evening routine. 

SKINCARE MORNING ROUTINE 

The following routine is written in sequence. Please follow these steps one after the other only. Don't intermix. 

1) Cleanse 

 

• Start cleansing your face after taking shower. 

•Apply any non foaming cleanser like milk, balm or gel. Then use warm water soaked flannel (below is the picture of flannel) to clean it. 

• Non foaming cleanser help to plump up the skin and retain moisture and foaming cleanser dehydrate skin. 

2) Exfoliate your skin with acid toner 

• Don't use harsh scrubs. Our skin is naturally acidic and therefore acid products have become toners of 21st century.

• Try to have a couple of acid products : 'a' milder version and 'a' more active one and use them alternatively.

• Main acids are glycolic, lactic and salicylic. If you are using for the first time, start with lactic acid, start slowly and follow your skin response. 

• Application - dampen 2/3rd of the cloth cloth in acid and apply. (Apply properly near eye area also).

3) Spray Hydrate 

• Use whatever hydrating flower mist or water you like. 

• Preferably, it should contain glycerin or hyaluronic acid (locks in moisture), but a 'good quality's rosewater is also fine. 

4) Eye product 

• Next step is to apply eye product in the orbital area (area covered by sunglasses) 

5) Apply serum/oils 

• First apply water based serums and then a few drops of facial oil (if you are using).

• Skip oil in case you are using heavily siliconed serum. 

•Dont rub serum or oil on your hands. Take few drops on the tip of your finger and apply directly to your face. 

6) Moisturise 

• Choose it according to your skin type not your skin condition. 

• Avoid anything mattifying. Skin isn't used to matte.

• For oily skin - use light hyaluronic acid serum (which lock in moisture) and oil free moisturiser. 

•Dont change your moisturiser. Whatever moisturiser you are using currently is best for you.

•Its a skincare myth of not using moisturiser if you have oily skin. 

• Amount to be applied : apply till your skin feels comfortable, not wet.  

7) Apply SPF 

• Moisturiser with added SPF will not benefit skin as much as two separate products will. And don't use SPF instead of moisturiser. Follow each step religiously. You surely will notice a significant difference. 

• Always use broad spectrum sunscreen like either SPF 30 or SPF 50. The effects of not applying sunscreen will be seen once you are in your 40s. 

• UVA rays penetrate deep in skin and gradually destroy elasticity causing premature ageing and UVB also cause skin damage. So better use sunscreen if you go out in sun.

• Apply it everywhere including back of neck and top of ears and rest of the body that is exposed to sun. 

•  It's recommended to use 2 milligram of sunscreen per square centimetre of area. However as a thumb rule, sunscreen should be applied as double the amount of moisturiser you use. 

• Reapply every 2 hours, if sitting in sun. 

EVENING ROUTINE 

• Preferably, use different products at night because you don't need SPF (thicker protecting moisturiser) which means you can use lighter and more effective formulation to target skin issues. 

• So morning routine is for protecting the skin and evening routine for treating and repairing the skin. 

1) Cleanse 

• Double cleansing is required - first one to remove make up & SPF  and second for proper cleansing. 

First cleanse 

• Apply any one of them -  thicker cleansing creams, greasy balm, oils (not expensive ones). 

• Then remove with warm flannel (shown below)

Second cleanse 

• This is the massage stage. So don't spend time massaging in first stage (loosening the dirt).

• You can use any one of them - good cleansing balms, cleansing milks, cleansing gels (non foaming that is without sodium lauryl sulphate), etc. 

Note - You don't need to pat dry your face for going to next stage. Damp skin is best to work on. 

2) Apply Vitamin A (optional)

• Remember, it's always applied on dry skin. Apply only pea size amount of it. After applying, leave for 20 minutes on skin. 

• If you are in your 30s use it 3 times a week, in 40s : 4 times and in 50s : daily.

• If you are not applying Vitamin A, then follow the same routine as in morning after double cleansing. And if using Vit A then follow the steps as mentioned below after double cleansing.

• It's commonly called retinoids. They are best for fighting signs of ageing. 

• Don't apply on neck, eyes, nose, mouth.

3) Eye product 

• Use serum or gel (equal to 'pine nut' amount per eye). Avoid rich cream.

4) Apply treatment products(usually serums or facial oil)

• Treatment products should be your main expense on skincare. Try to have 'atleast' three products and use them depending on your skin need. 

5) Moisturiser 

•If you need moisturiser or not depends on your treatment. If you are using lively night time oil, you may not need anything else. 

• Using strong Vitamin A can have extreme effects for first time users so always apply moisturiser or mild facial oil for 20-30 minutes. 

SUMMER SKIN 

• Use light products and more SPF.

• Acids - using hyaluronic acid is best for hot weather but use light moisturiser.

• antioxidant - Vit C is powerful antioxidant and it protect against free radicals and encourage collagen production 

• Moisturizer - Use oil free Moisturizer as skin retain most of its moisture in humidity. 

WINTER SKIN  

• Keep hydrating your skin frequently. 

• And don't forget Vit D. People with darker skin make less Vit D and ageing skin makes 75% less Vit D. Vit D is important to absorb calcium and it also degrade quickly from the body.

• According to NHS guidelines everyone (including pregnent and breastfeeding) should take daily supplement containing 10 microgram of Vit D in autumn and winter. 

Lips 

• Cleanse them using acid cotton pad. After that use oil and then moisturizer. 

SOME IMPORTANT ADVICES 

• You know your skin best, so buy products that suits you best (but of good quality).

• Buy white flannels (they are best to use on face) to wipe your face. Soak it in lukewarm water and remove extra water before using on face. 

• Evening cleaning is more intense and more important than morning cleansing.

• The skincare mentioned above is to be applied on face and TITTS(take to the tits) which means your neck and décolleté (french term for upper chest and shoulder area). 

•Vitamin D is very important. Do get some sunshine

• Don't smoke, get enough sleep, drink enough water, avoid stress. 

• Food - Gut health is very important for skin (eat probiotics), avoid - sugar, white food (pasta, bread etc), Dairy products, fried food, alcohol.

• Ensure taking Omega oils to help skin internally. Fish oils are best and flax are second best if you are vegetarian. 

# Please comment and share the post of you liked it. 

• This post summarise the skincare routine given by Caroline Hirons in her book 'Skincare'. She is fully trained advanced asthetician with 35yrs of experience in skincare industry.